A scooter that will not go is alarming, particularly if you rely on it. The good news is that most of the ones we are called out to are fixed in under a minute, by something anyone can check.
Work down this list in order.
1. Is it in freewheel?
This is the most common cause by a distance.
Every scooter has a freewheel or manual-release lever — usually near the rear wheels — that disengages the motor so the scooter can be pushed. With it engaged, the scooter will not drive at all, and many will not even power up properly.
It gets knocked when the scooter is pushed, loaded into a car, or moved in a shed. Find the lever and make sure it is in the drive position. Then try again.
2. Is it actually charged?
- Is the charger plugged in at the wall and switched on at the socket?
- Is it plugged in properly at the scooter end? These sockets are stiff and a half-connection looks connected
- Does the charger show a light? No light means the charger is not working, which is different from the battery being flat
- Leave it on a long charge — overnight — and try again
A battery that has been left flat for weeks may not recover. That is worth knowing before you spend a day trying.
3. Is the key fully in?
Sounds too simple. It is regularly the answer. Take the key out and put it back in firmly. Worn keys and worn barrels can make intermittent contact — if it works when you wiggle it, that is your fault found.
4. Is a charger still connected?
Most scooters have a safety cut-out that disables driving while the charger is plugged in. If the lead is still in — even at the scooter end only — it will not move. Unplug completely at both ends.
5. Is the seat properly down and locked?
Many scooters have a seat sensor and will not drive if the seat is not seated and locked on its post. If it has been swivelled or lifted, drop it back and turn it until it clicks.
Still nothing? Note the warning lights
If your scooter has a light or display that flashes a number of times, that is a fault code, and it tells an engineer a great deal. Count the flashes and write the number down before you ring us — it can be the difference between one visit and two.
Other things that produce the same symptom
- Thermal cut-out. After a long hill or heavy load, the controller may shut down to protect itself. Leave it 20 minutes and try again
- Loose battery connection. Common after the scooter has been dismantled for a car. Check the sections are pushed fully together and any connector is properly home
- Very cold weather. A cold battery can behave as though it is flat. Bring it somewhere warm and charge it
- Blown fuse. Some models have an accessible fuse — check the manual
Stop straight away if
- There is a burning smell, or anything is hot to the touch
- The charger or its lead is damaged
- You can see leaking or swollen batteries
Unplug it, leave it, and ring us. Do not keep trying.
Do not open it up
Do not take off panels, open the battery box or attempt electrical repairs. Beyond being unsafe, it may affect your warranty.
Then ring us
If none of the above has done it, ring free on 0800 593 0400. Have the model to hand and the number of flashes if there is a fault code.
Scooters and powerchairs bought from us come with a 12-month at-home warranty, so an engineer comes to you — you are not getting it to us somehow.